UK 2014 Trip: Benton & Johnson

As you all know, I love goldwork embroidery.  Those wires and threads seem like magic adding sparkle, texture, and a little extra life to my embroidery.  I had the wonderful experience of visiting the Benton & Johnson factory just north of Coventry during my trip in June.  It was fascinating!  I had absolutely zero clue how labor-intensive these threads are to make.



Neil Halford of Benton and Johnson graciously showed me all the machinery and walked me through the steps required to make many of the metal threads and wires.  The process of making each thread was not a quick task and required a lot of patience and a tremendous attention to detail.  A tiny kink or incorrect tension and there goes your hard work and wire.


Here are a few things I learned and saw while at Benton & Johnson:

- Bullion is just a larger smooth purl (no technical difference other than the tube diameter).

- Broad Plate take 28-30 passes through the flattening machine to get to the correct dimensions.
- The color that the metal is wrapped around for passing makes an incredible difference in the final color of the passing.  If I thought about it, I would have assumed this would happen.  It was fascinating though to see how much of a difference it can make.



 This is the machine used to flatten the wires for smooth passing or rococo.  The more weight added at the bottom, the thinner the wire becomes.


 

Pearl Purl:  First the metal wire is drawn to the correct thickness, depending on the desired final size, by pulling the wire through a series of dies.  The smaller the desired pearl purl, the thinner the required wire and the more number of dies the wire must be drawn through.

Pearl Purl: Once the metal is the correct thickness, it is flattened and then pulled through another die and onto a round guide wire producing the cup-shaped wire needed for the pearl purl.  To separate the wire from the guide wire, two people have to wind them off each other in tandem (pictured above).


Pearl Purl:  Finally, the cupped wire is spun around a needle to create the iconic length of pearls.  The final pearl purl winds itself into through the funnels and into the buckets.

 Smooth Purl: For Smooth Purl, the wire is fed through a machine that spins it tightly around a smooth round needle and into a tube.


Bright Check:  Bright Check is made using the same process with the only difference of using a triangular needle instead of a smooth round one to create the jagged edges of the bright check tube.

Here is a link to the Benton & Johnson online shop where you can purchase metal threads and wires to your hearts content!  If you don't see a specific material you would like or have a question, Neil's email is listed at the top of the website.